Saturday, July 26, 2008

My Hungarian Family



Today might be one the most fulfilling, insightful and emotional days of my life.  This is not hyperbole.  This is the truth!

Beata came to meet me around 4 pm.  We walked over to the cafe, it's across the street from the Opera house on Andrassy, called Muvesz Kavezo and waited.  Beata was out of cigarrettes, so she ran to get some.  Just as she does so, I see the big man with the moustache, his wife and a younger woman.  It's them.  They look around.  They see me and it's immediate -- we're family.  

We hug, we kiss, we all tear up.  Like real tears, the kind you simply can't hold back and don't feel bad about letting go.  They brought me flowers and flowers for Beata too.  We kiss and hug some more.  We can't stop looking at each other.  Agoston and I have the same blue eyes.  

Agoston is big, but not fat at all.  He's 55.  Tall and thick, but in no way fat. Just very big.  His wife, Erzebet (Elizabeth) is lovely.  So beautiful.  They brought their daughter, Clari, she's my age and very pretty and spoke a little english.  Beata returns and we all sit down.  My camera rolls.

They brought with them a package of photos and letters and certificates of birth, death and marriage.  Every photo made me cry. My hand shook as I picked them up.   A new batch of fresh tears every single time.  There's pictures of my grandma, Valeria, so young and so unbelievable pretty.  Her sister, Margit, 5 years older than her, another knock-out.  This is Agoston's mother.  He's my mother's cousin, so he's my first cousin, once removed.  He and Erzebet have 3 children, and 5 grandchildren (two of which are still in the womb!) 

There's photos of my grandfather, Istvan Martonhegyi, so handsome and young.  Strong.  A true Hungarian freedom-fighter.  There's photos of my mother, from ages 4 through 17.  Pictures of my mom's brother, my uncle Peter, from 3 - 16 years old.  Pictures of my grandfather when after he came to America and his new wife, Christa, my Oma (whom my mother did not get along with, and you can see it in the photos!)

 There's letters my grandmother wrote her own mother, that Beata translated and read to me.  In one she said "I'm so very ill and think I will die soon."  

There's letters my grandfather Istvan wrote to his deceased wife's family back in Hungary.  About once a year, based on the post marks.  Some Christmas cards, often with photos.  To see their own handwriting is to see the history of my own strange and elegant cursive.  He calls his in-laws "mother and father" and asks them to send him the sport section of the Hungarian newspapers.  He gives little details about my mother and uncle Pete here and there.  "Vali has a car now.  Peter is working."  

There's a photo of my great grandparents and their 3 children (Margit, Istvan and Valeria).  It's like a portal back in time.  To look at my great-grandfather's face is to see Agoston.  To look at my great-aunt Margit is to see there daughter.  To look at my grandma is to see me.  

Beata did me such an incredible service by translating.  She helped me so much, I can't think there's anything I can ever do to truly repay her.  But I know she loves pastries, so she's going to get the BEST I can find in Budapest.  

Agoston told me, with a red, tear-streaked face, that I have made him so happy by finding him and being here and it has changed his life.  Both of us crying, we couldn't help but get up and hug and kiss each other some more.  I could not agree more with those sentiments.  My life is forever changed, for the better.  

We talked of many things.  How every weekend on Saturdays, he, his sister (Zsuzsa, who is now 57 and suffers badly from MS), his mother, Margit and Father, Agoston and my great-grandparents would meet at my grandmother's grave.  Every Saturday for over ten years.  

I asked how Agoston and Erzebet met.  They asked about me and my mom (Vali).  I talked about my sisters and all our accomplishments.  And that I have a Polish father.  And they laughed at that with good nature.  

I told him the story my mom told me on the phone today.  That one of her first memories is sleeping over at her grandparent's house, in the bed with them and they snored all night and frightened her!  

We laughed, we cried, we got to know each other and communicated beyond the language barrier.  This is only the first day we'll have with each other, the first meeting of many to come.
They invited mom and to stay with them when we come next year.  I invited them to the US.  I'm sure in our lives we'll cross the ocean many times to see each other.

There's no one else left.  Everyone has passed except for Agoston and his sister.  Agoston's children keep the Garai family name alive, but Kiraly and Martonhegyi are fewer and fewer.  (Kiraly is Valeria and Margit's maiden names, Margit married into the Garai name).  My great-grandmother was the last survivor of the older generation, she died at 91, having outlived all of her children and her husband.  

Finally, they brought a photo of my grandmother for me to keep.  And for this, my heart is full of emotion and gratitude, so much so that I can barely type through the tears.   She is so lovely and amazing.  I'm so sorry she died so young and that through her death, much of her/my family spread apart.  But time is not something I will dwell upon or fixate over.  The present is much more important and astonishing.  Agoston and Erzebet met me, a stranger, with more compassion, kindness and care than I would have ever imagined.  They said they would scan/copy all the photos/documents they have and even come to my art opening at Mucius Gallery, here in Budapest, on August 5th!  

If I do nothing else this residency, my journey to find my grandmother's grave has been so incredibly fortunate and profound that I can live and sleep soundly even if my footage sucks and my life as an artist is in some limbo sphere.  I came here to begin the research for my film, to find Valeria's grave and in return I have accomplished so much more.  I found the family I never had, the family my mother lost and the family I will always know and love from this day forward.  



Friday, July 25, 2008

Farkasreti Cemetery and Family news




I took two Metro lines and one tram line to get to the Farkasreti Cemetery today.  Only got lost once, but easily doubled back and got on the right tram.  The cemetery is on the far side of Buda and was right there once I got off at the stop.  

I knew which section to go to (30/2) and the plot number.  But when I got there, I couldn't find a grave that said "Martonhegyi Istvanne" anywhere!  Discouraged, I walked to the Information office, noticing a large amount of police and people arriving.  The woman at information helped me a bit and told me the grave has the name "Garai Agostonne" on it.  Hmmm...

So, I found that grave.  This was originally my grandmother's grave, and I think Garai Agostonne was my grandmother's sister, and when she died, her family changed the headstone to only show her name.  That's a little sad.  But, I shot some video and left my flowers.

As I was leaving, I saw a large camera crew and followed them.  I need a camera crew!  But oddly enough, I wandered into the funeral service of Gyorgy Kolonics, the Olympic canoe/kayak winner and national sports hero who died last week of acute heart failure while training.  I shot a lot of photos and video of what I could...the crowd grew exponentially while I was there, from a few hundred people to thousands of people.  Young kids brought canoes to the memorial, everyone had a flower and a Hungarian flag ribbon.  It was so surreal, to be looking for a specific grave and to stumble onto the funeral of some kind of Hungarian celebrity.  

Then I made it back to the hotel, but bought some shoes along the way (as if I needed another big package to carry!)

When I got in my room, Patricia said "sit down."  So, I sat down.  She passed on the message that Beata got in touch with Garai Agoston and I am to meet with my second-cousin tomorrow at 5 pm!  I CAN'T BELIEVE IT!  So I rushed to call Beata and she told me he is so excited to meet me, that he cried on the phone, had a million questions and I guess he has all the family records.  He mentioned that in 1980, he removed my granmother's gravestone, because no one had come to visit her in 30 years.  This solves the mystery of why it's there, but not there. 

This is like a dream come true.  I have never met any of my Hungarian relatives on my grandmother's side.  Agoston is probably nearly 60 years old.  He told Beata he's fat and has a moustache.  I cried when I was on the phone with Beata too.  I'm crying now, I can't help it.  

In a year, when mom and I come back, she'll be able to meet with him and look through his files and likely see a photo of her mother.  Because she doesn't have one, never has.  And her face, the way she looks, is a only a faded memory from a long-ago childhood.  

What a fucking amazing day. 







Thursday, July 24, 2008

July 24th and what I did today

After yesterday's awesome research discoveries, I sat at my favorite bar and the German guys I met, Mario and Sebastian, came by and we had some drinks.  Then Candida and Lana came by and joined us.  Then we went to a couple more bars and I met some American's and Canadians and we chatted it up for awhile.  I got sufficiently drunk enough to have a bit of a hangover today.  

But I pushed through it and headed out to the city around 11.  I had to buy a new data card for my camera (great, another expensive addition to an already expensive trip) and then I wandered around for a while looking for antique stores and photo printing shops.  I'm looking for ornate, detailed wooden frames, the kind great paintings might be housed in and then I'm going to insert my modern photographic images into the frames.  Depending on the size, I'd like to make 3 different pieces.  The idea is that I'll juxtapose these modern images with the antique frames - as a comment on how I see Budapest and the culture in Hungary.  I found a really fancy antique place that was asking 35,000 forints for one frame!  That's crazy!  So, I'll head to the flea market at City Park on Saturday, and if I'm not lucky there, there's another flea market on Monday by the airport (apparently run by some very tricky gypsies!)  And if that fails, there's a framer who can make antique looking frames for me, but these will likely cost quite a bit. 

So, I shot a lot more photos today.  A lot of touristy stuff of architecture and buildings, but I got some interesting shots of Andrassy Utca, which looks a lot like it's about to explode into the next Rodeo Drive or 5th Avenue.  There's Gucci and Armani and Guess stores in these incredibly old buildings.  It's all very strange.  This modern shift in Hungary's economy and culture seems to take away from the city, rather than enhance it.  At least for me.  One thing I'm glad about though, is that there's no fucking Wal-Mart here!  And I hope there never is.  

I made it over the US Embassy, which was a total security nightmare.  I had to go through metal detector and hand over my phone, camera and iPod to the security guard.  All this just to find out that I need to go to the Hungarian Consulate to acquire about citizenship.  

Beata visited us today and she called the phone number I was given of the person who might be a family member, the one who paid the rent on the grave.  There was no answer.  But I gave her all my information, and she is going to try again for me tonight and tomorrow and help set a way that I can meet this person.  Hopefully, they speak a little english...but if not, Beata said she'd join us for coffee and translate for me.  This is huge...I've never met any of my Hungarian family, except the few who came with my mom in 57.  

I'm shooting a lot less video than I anticipated, but tomorrow I will go to the correct cemetery and hopefully find my grandma.  I am seriously going to have to come back with a crew, because I simply can't shoot all the things I'm doing. 

Can't believe this is almost half over.  

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Farkasreti Cemetery

This is where my grandmother is buried.  Farkasreti Cemtery, in the Buda side of the Budapest. 

How do I know?  Well, I went back to Kerepesi today and met with a woman in the Information Office who spoke a little english and she made a million phone calls, let me videotape her while she did so, and she found all the information I needed.  The story is incredible.  

My grandmother died in 1957.  Her side of the family paid for her grave.  Graves leases "expire" and cease if not released every 25 years (that's the weirdest thing I've ever heard!)  In 1980, a family member of her's, Gadai Agostonne, died, and was buried by her, thereby extending the lease on the grave (which would have expired in 1982).  Then, another 25 years was added to the lease.  So, in 2005, the grave expired again.  My helper, Barbara, waiting for a call back, said, if it wasn't paid, it might not be there.  If it is there, you can pay to keep it.  It will only cost about 150,000 forints!

Well, then she gets a call back.  And the grave was paid in 2005 by Garia Agostonne.  She then gave me this persons phone number and address.  

I think the person who died was my grandmother's sister.  And I think the person who paid on the grave is one of her children, and this person lives in Budapest.  

Barbara also gave me tram and metro directions to Farkasreti.  She was so helpful, I teared up when I said goodbye to her.

So, the adventure keeps shifting and changing.  Tomorrow, or the next day it DOESN'T RAIN ALL DAY, I'll head over there.  I know the transportation system well enough now to feel comfortable getting there with all my equipment.  

I'm also going to ask, Beata, my liaison, to translate a phone call to this person for me.  Wow, I have goosebumps just thinking about it!

For now, I'm going to hang out with the cute German boys I met at Kiado Kocsma last night. Young and friendly, we're going to hit up a few bars.  

No pics today, but a lot of progress in my research and quest to find my grandma's grave.  I can't wait to bring her some flowers and tell her that my mom loves her. 

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

July 22nd Pics - Buda, Danube and more

Photobucket Album

Buda + Danube = Perfect

Today, Holly, Hannah, Patricia and I walked our way to the Vivivaroszi gallery on the Buda side of the Danube.   We left around noon and walked Andrassy until we hit St. Stephen's Basilica, where we simply had to go inside and enjoy its majestic splendor.  The Basilica is named for St. Stephen, the first king of Hungary (975-1038), and his mummified fist is housed in the reliquary.  I tried to get some shots of it, but with no flash, in a dark room, all you can really see is the case where the freaky mummy hand is.  You can actually see the knuckles if you look close. 

We crossed the Chain Bridge into Buda and walked towards the gallery, stopping frequently to ooooh and aaaaah at the gorgeous hills, castles, statues and architecture we passed along the way.  The bridge itself is AMAZING.  It's probably one of the most famous structures in the city.  From the bridge, you can see both sides of Budapest, from Parliament to the hills.  The river is wide and there's lots of tour boats and sailboats.   The whole thing felt totally surreal and romantic - I'm inspired and feel like I know my way around Budapest pretty well now.  

We finally made it to the gallery, where our work will show in 2009.  The show that's up is all work from past A.I.R. residents, including my great friend, Belinda Haikes!
(who I miss like crazy!)

After the gallery, we went to Cafe Gusto and ate very delicious sandwiches.  I had the best cappucino I've had here so far (the coffee at breakfast is always terrible...in fact, I'm convinced it's made with mud).  Then Hannah and Patricia went to the bath house, and Holly and I ventured off on our own, taking our time on the walk back to cross the Margit bridge and spend a little time on Margit Island, a little island in the river --- not unlike Belle Isle in Detroit and Belle Isle in Richmond!  

I came to some revelations today.  More about the video project and about what I might do for my gallery piece for the residency.  I was going to cut a short together but I think now I'll aim more towards photo.  I'm going to look for an old, ornate frame at the flea market.  Something that conjures up the baroque and detailed architecture of the city, but use a modern image to juxtapose the energy of Budapest.  A city so full of lovely and incredible design, everywhere you look, but caught in a crossroads of modern expansion and capitalist development.  I can't stop thinking about the ballet school housed on the second floor of the building riddled with bullet holes and war wounds.  To me, that surmises Budapest.  Beauty, elegance and grace surrounded by scars and pain.  As the body pushes itself, the body of the dancers, they are still encapsulated in this war-torn shell, this shameful and horrible fate.  Somewhere inbetween beauty and grotesque, this city pulses and physically, emotionally and spiritually thrives.   

So, that might be my piece.  It might not...

Tomorrow, I'm going back to the cemetery to *hopefully* track down where my grandmother's grave might have been moved to...

Patricia said she'd come with me.  And just having one person by my side will make all the difference in the world.  

I'm also going to go the US Embassy and see if I can get dual citizenship.  Come November, if Obama doesn't win, I know where I'd like to defect to.  

And last night...oh yeah!  Last night!  I met an American man who's lived here 11 years.  His son had just been born the day before and he was celebrating.  His wife is Hungarian, so they live here.  He said it took him about 2 years to really learn and be comfortable with the language.  He then told me he works in film/audio and worked on the audio for Hellboy 2.  I have yet to confirm this, but he did tell me he'd be my best friend if I moved here.  Cool. 

And, I just met two fun Germans!  Sebastian and Mario (huh, that name's not German!)  Couple of youngin's!  Adorable!  They're from Dusseldorf...and of course, I think of Dana and my lost trip to Germany.  Oh well.  When I live in Budapest, next year perhaps, it's only an hour or so flight away.   





Monday, July 21, 2008

Breakthrough

My new roommate, Patricia, is just what I needed to pull me out of my funk.  She's in her mid-thirties (i think) and she just arrived yesterday to the Residency.  She does incredibly thoughtful installation pieces.  Originally from Ecuador, she lives in Tennessee.  

This morning, she and I figured out the tram/metro (subway) system and bought our passes.  We then took a long walk to Hero's Square and the park at Varosliget.  Here, there's the Palace of Art, the Museum of Fine Art and a truly amazing and beautiful castle.  Vaydahunyad Castle.  Neither of us went on this trek with cameras, instead, we enjoyed the walk and the weather and the scenery, with no pressure.  It was relaxing and good for my body, mind and spirit.  We talked the whole way, taking in the surroundings, conversing about art, politics, philosophy, culture and our lives.  I think she's awesome.  

After lunch, I took a nap.  I woke up after about 45 minutes feeling completely refreshed and motivated.  With my new understanding of the transportation systems, I felt confident enough to get on the metro and head back to where we were today, this time with my video camera and tripod.  I shot a lot of exterior and scenic shots of the monuments and buildings, the people, the tourists.  I even kept the camera rolling while I was on the subway.  The sounds and audio on the metro is really incredible.  A loud whirr and whoosh and grind mixed with voices and hisses and sounds of brakes.  Then the doors whisk open and people come and go.  My luck, as I entered the metro station and stamped my pass, the guard totally accosted me for my ticket...and I was rolling!  

While I was in Hero's Square, the cutest blond boy was fascinated by me and the camera.  I got a couple shots of him.  My luck again, he joined me on the metro a couple stops later!  He was so adorable.  Funny, in a city of 2 million people, I run into this little tow-head twice.  

Today is a far cry from yesterday's slump.  Lunch was even better.  Everything was better.  I don't hurt as much and I feel rested and strong again.  I may have to revamp my plans for my project and the work I'll do here, but isn't that how filmmaking, and life in general, usually ends up.  Even the best plans can go to shit.  The point is, to pick yourself up and keep on shooting, living, breathing -- and to be excited about it every step, even if painful, along the way.  

Patricia also offered me some excellent advice:  forget editing.  Shoot EVERYTHING.  Shoot all the time.  Don't waste time editing right now, I'll always have the footage.  Right now, my opportunity is to capture as much footage as possible.  She put it like this: "Say you're at home, editing and you say, shit, I forgot to shoot that...it's not like you can come right back."  And she's right.  All I needed was a new perspective.

So, cheers to her and everyone for their love and support.